CERAMIC COATING
from swirls & foggy to shiny & crystal clear
step 1: WASH
Hand wash the car precisely using the two-bucket method with a pH-neutral car wash soap. This removes loose dirt and surface grime and preps the car for the next step. Follow with a rinse to make sure no soap residue remains.
Step 2: Decontamination
Use a chemical iron remover (like an iron fallout spray) to dissolve embedded brake dust and metal particles, then follow with a clay bar or clay mitt to pull out any remaining bonded contaminants (tar, tree sap, overspray) that washing alone can't remove. This leaves the paint completely smooth to the touch.
Paint Correction (Polish)
Inspect the paint under good lighting for swirls, scratches, and oxidation. Use a dual-action polisher with cutting or finishing compound to correct imperfections and bring out gloss and clarity. This step can range from a light one-step polish to multi-stage correction depending on the paint's condition and the client's expectations.
Panel Wipe / IPA Prep
Wipe down every panel with a panel prep solution (isopropyl alcohol mix) to strip away any polishing oils, waxes, or residues. This is critical — ceramic coating needs a completely bare, oil-free surface to bond properly. Skipping or rushing this step is the most common cause of coating failure.
Ceramic Coating Application
Apply the ceramic coating in small sections using an applicator suede or foam block, working in straight, overlapping lines. Let it flash (haze) for the manufacturer-recommended time, then buff off the excess with a clean microfiber towel before it fully cures. Work in a controlled, dust-free environment with proper lighting to catch high spots.
Curing Time
Let the vehicle sit undisturbed in a climate-controlled space (ideally 60-80°F, low humidity) for the coating's specified cure window — often 24-48 hours before any water exposure and up to 7 days for full hardness. Avoid touching the paint or driving in rain during this window.